Madrid

I took the Metro from Atocha, Madrid's main train station, to my apartment in an 1873 building which has one of those beautiful old glass enclosed,  wrougt-iron lifts. The apartment has been completely renovated and is very comfortable. it is in the centre of Madrid's historic district with all the main places of interest either within walking distance or a short hop on the metro. The Puerta del Sol, a pedestrianised wide-open space, is the bustling heart of Madrid and I set off from there to orient myself. In the centre of the square is an equestrian statue of King Charles 111, the 18th century monarch who transformed Madrid into a vibrant city by making the Royal Palace the wonder of Europe, building such icons as the Prado Museum and decorating the squares with beautiful fountains. Facing the square is the County Governor's Office, a striking red and white building with a beautiful
bell tower. It was once General Franco's police headquarters and an amazing number of political prisoners tried to escape by jumping out the windows. Directly in front of the building there is a brass marker on the curb signaling "kilometer zero" and indicating the symbolic centre of Spain. On either side of the entrance to the the Office are two plaques, one honouring the victims of the terrorist bombing on March 11, 2004 and the other the start of the war against Napoleon in 1808, when he invaded Spain. From there I crossed over the vast cobbled 17th century Plaza Mayor, stopping briefly at the La Torre del Oro Bar for an ale and to have a look at the superb photos and artifacts decorating the walls there of former matadors plying their trade. Adjacent to the Plaza is the historic 1916 Mercado de San Miguel, a superb iron and glass structure selling fresh produce along with gourmet foods and fine wines. I then passed the Town Hall with its distinctive architectual style of symmetrical square towers, topped with steeples and a slate roof. Not far was the Almudena Cathedral with its refreshingly modern and colourful nave, a 5,000 pipe organ and a wonderful 15th century painted altarpiece. It has an enormous crypt in a graceful neo-Romanesque style with over 400 columns, each with its own unique capital, the decoration at the top of the column. The crypt is encircled by by 20 very beautiful chapels and gorgeous stained glass windows. My last stop before heading home was the Royal Palace, which has always been Madid's centre of power, evolving from Moorish castle to Christian fortress to its current Renaissance palace. The expansive courtyard surrounded by the imposing Baroque architecture represents the wealth of Spain before its decline. I shall try to go inside tomorrow.