Nazaré - Day Two

I had a full on but most enjoyable day visiting three towns in the vicinity of Nazaré of particular historic interest, Batalha, Alcobaça and Óbidos. I took an early bus to Batalha to see the 14th century Monastery of Santa Maria, which King John 1 built after routing the besieging Spanish invaders in a battle to decide the future of Portugal, either its independence or rule by Spanish kings. The exterior is a late Gothic structure with stained glass windows, fierce gargoyles and pointed spires. The interior is classic Gothic with tall pillars leading to pointed arches over the altar, resembling "praying hands". Light from the stained glass windows coloured the floors and pillars and gave the nave a feeling of warmth. Off the nave was the Founders' Chapel, which featured statues of past Portuguese kings. In the centre of the Chapel was a double sarcophagus of King John 1 and his English Queen, Philippa, holding hands for eternity. Next was the really beautiful Royal Cloister with its pointed arches and Manueline decorations (elaborate carved stonework originating with the artistic King Manuel 1) surrounding an elegant courtyard. Located in the Monastery is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, with soldiers from the Portuguese Army standing guard on either side. While I was there I was fortunate to see the ceremonial Changing of the Guard. After Batalha I headed to Alcobaça to have a look at an abbey church there, the 13th century Cistercian Monastery of Santa Maria. A long and narrow nave led to a pair of finely carved Gothic tombs, belonging to King Peter 1 and his mistress, Dona Inês de Castro,  which have been lying there since1360. They rest feet to feet in facing  transepts so that on Judgement Day they'll rise and simultaneously see each other. Here too is a Hall featuring terra-cotta statues of most of Portugal's kings. Adjacent to the nave was a cloister around which the Cistercian monks, dedicated to total silence, would walk, meditate and pray.  From Alcobaça I headed to the ancient walled town of Óbidos. This town has a checkered past as it was founded by the Celts in 300 BC,  ruled by the Romans, then the nomadic German Visigoths, followed by the Moors and finally the Spanish kings took over. The wall was built as a fortification in the 14th century and after wandering around the town's cobbled lanes I walked along its high parapet,  peering through its defensive battlements at the countryside below. On the Town Square there was a 16th century pillory around which those who committed misdemeanours were flogged. I finished my visit at the Church of St. Mary of Óbidos with its classic 17th century blue wall tiles and finely painted wooden ceiling over the central nave. Tomorrow I take a bus to the university town of Coimbra, which is reputed to be Portugal's most enjoyable town.