Zaragoza

Zaragoza, on the banks of the mighty Rio Ebro, is the capital of the province of Aragón and a vibrant and elegant city full of superb monuments from the previous Roman, Islamic and Christian eras. It was founded in BC 14 by the Roman Emperor, Caesar Augusta, hence its name. After checking in to my apartment in the old quarter I headed for the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar. Legend says that it was on this spot in AD 40 that St. James the Apostle saw Mary descend from Heaven atop a marble pillar. Originally a chapel was built around the pillar, followed by a series of grandiose churches, culminating in the present enormous Basilica. Its splendid main dome is surrounded by 10 mini-domes with each covered in Byzantine blue, green , yellow and white tiles. I took the lift partially up to the top of its North Tower and then climbed the spiraling steps to its summit for a panoramic view of the domes and the city environs. The Basilica has beautiful Baroque chapels and behind one, the Capilla Santa, in a lateral passage, a tiny, oval shaped portion of the acclaimed pillar is exposed. The faithful line up to kiss this ancient, polished relic. The Basilica has a glorious,16th century alabaster Altarpiece and Zaragoza's favourite son, Goya, has painted a a striking work of Mary, which he called "La Reina de los Mártires". At the other end of the Plaza del Pilar is a Cathedral of extraordinary beauty, La Seo del Salvador, which was built berween the 12th and 17th centuries and consists of remarkable architectural styles, ranging from Romanesque to Baroque with gorgeous Mudéjar or Muslim elements of classic dark brickwork and colourful ceramic decorations in complex geometric patterns. There is an exquisite 15th century alabaster Altarpiece and the Nave is surrounded with 16 lovely Baroque chapels, which are lit up with the soft light filtering through the Cathedral's circular stained glass windows. The Cathedral  also has a Museum, displaying a wonderful collection of French and Flemish tapestries from  the 14th to the 17th centuries. Zaragoza has a reputation for fine tapas, so I'll try them out tonight and have a further look around the city tomorrow.